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The Skräp Collection is a jewelry line that utilizes metal waste from the fine art knife industry. Many knife makers, particularly those who make pocket knives, use the stock removal method in their process. This is in order to preserve the intricate patterns found in pattern-welded steel, however it creates much more waste than forging.
Spending a lot of time involved in this craft and industry made me wonder: How might we be able to repurpose the high-quality, rare, and expensive material scraps, which are too small for knife parts and are often thrown away?
my role
Jewelry Designer
Fabricator
project
Independent Project
timeline
2022 to Present
tools
Adobe Suite
Metalworking Tools
Other Machinery (Laser, Mill, Bandsaw, Belt Grinder, etc.)
Why Knife Waste?
Many knife makers are self-proclaimed material hoarders, keeping all the tiny remnants and cutoffs that they are left with until they get frustrated with the bulk and throw them all away. These materials typically cost hundreds up to thousands of dollars depending on the source, age, rarity, and base materials, and can be quite difficult to acquire.
One example is the steel pictured below (image credits to Damasteel AB). This steel was a limited run of 30 billets, which will never be manufactured again. They were available by email or in-person and cost over 1000USD each.
Since the offcuts from the knifemaking process are much too small to use for most other knife-related applications, what other size-appropriate products would be able to utilize such materials?
Why Jewelry?
As pattern-welded steel (commonly known as damascus) is gaining popularity with the general public due to media such as Forged in Fire and events like Renaissance Faires, overall interest is high for products using pattern-welded materials.
Small and weirdly-shaped cutoffs are perfectly sized for most jewelry applications, and most of the materials are completely body-safe. It just made sense to start with jewelry when starting this project.
In addition, while connecting with knife makers to source waste, we have found that their customer base is interested in a more budget-friendly way to support their favorite maker, as well as a way to take a piece of their favorite knife home.
Types of Waste
Most of the waste comes in one of two forms: either billets that had blanks cut from them with a waterjet, or small pieces that had been sawn off with a bandsaw.
Common Materials
Mokume Gane
A laminated material often comprised of copper, brass, silver, and other non-ferrous metals.
Stainless Damascus Steel
A laminated material comprised of various stainless steel alloys.
Timascus
A laminated material comprised of various titanium alloys. Heat or electro-anodizable for coloring.
These materials are generally body-safe, and if not then they can typically be soldered to a body-safe backing such as sterling silver. This method is most common with Mokume Gane as the copper content will oxidize skin.
Form Concept
One of the reasons why pattern-welded materials are so interesting is due to their structure. When beveled, chamfered, or ground away, the pattern changes. I knew I wanted to incorporate dramatic bevels into the overall looks of the collection. I drew a lot of inspiration from stone-cutting and lapidary as these materials can be chatoyant and shine like gemstones.
Designs
All of the individual jewelry pieces' forms are driven by the shape of the scraps I am working with. Most of the pieces are completely unique in form, especially the earlier ones. The more recent pieces are generally made according to a formula: mill the scrap to it's largest possible true-square dimensions, pick a gemstone cut, and cut a bunch of identical shapes. I keep the cuts simple as all the bevels are hand-filed. The bails and wire structures depend on what other materials I have on hand. Waste not, want not.
Earrings
Pendants
Manufacturing
All pieces are handmade using a variety of tools in my metalworking studio. Some parts of the process have been streamlined with machines such as a manual mill.
Jewelry Gallery
Current Partners
Third Line
Second Line
First Line & Proof of Concept
First Line &
Proof of Concept
This project is perpetually underway and will develop more as time goes on.
This project is perpetually underway and will develop more as time goes on.
Sale 3 - BladeShow West 2025
Sale 1 - UOregon Jewelry Expo 2022
Sale 2 - UOregon Jewelry Expo 2023
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